We meet Noha in the lobby and got taken to our first stop, the Pyramid of Djoser, or the first Step Pyramid in Egypt. Before it had been constructed, all pharaohs had been buried in platforms that looked like long over sized benches. But the architect Imhotep, kept adding layers to this particular one until there were six. This was how the first pyramid was constructed, basically by accident.
I took a great shot of a "guard" that was in front of The Enclosure Wall as we were coming into the structure. But I must admit that while walking through the roofed colonnade corridor leading into the complex, I was surprised at the amount of cigarette butts and the stench of urine in one of the smaller rooms. I can't imagine in a million years that I would find the same things walking through the Lincoln Memorial.
We drove back through the "country," if it can be called that. There were a few patches of farmland, but they were surrounded by tons of two and three story apartment buildings. Families often don't have money to build an entire house, so they build the main floor, and then leave the structural columns above for any future floors they might need to live in or rent out for extra income. As they get more money, they buy bricks, concrete, windows, etc until they can add the next floor. So the city is covered with apartment or low rise family units that are in constant states of building.
We took a detour to a rug factory. It was very interesting how the kids are making the rugs, since making the rug needs very keen eyesight and by adulthood, the eyes can't see as well. So the factory was created by the government to teach the trade to the kids, who "allegedly" only work for two or three hours a day before they go to school. We got a lesson on the difference between the silk and wool carpets and told several times that the school was fully funded by the government. It was quite shocking to see how fast their hands move while tying the fibers.We also stopped at a papyrus store. We learned of the process and how it is made. It is cut into stripes, rolled, place in water for six days and then placed between two carpet squares in a weaved fashion. While it is in between the two carpet pieces, it is placed between a press for another six days. At which point it is sent out to get painted upon by very fine artists who will put anything on it, including Michael Jackson. We did buy a very small piece of art that has the Birds in Acacia Tree (Tree of Life). Very cute but expensive. After a little while, we finally make it to the pyramids of Giza.
So here we are. One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and the only one that still exists. I surprised myself when I realized that I was more excited about the upcoming camel ride then to see the pyramids. Yes, they are grand, yes, there are several and yes, it's amazing how they were built without bulldozers, overpaid supervisors or CAD software. But honestly, it was a bit discouraging to see the city so close, cars driving around and people yelling at you "how much you pay" as they are shoving stuffed camel dolls made in China. I had heard from others at how "awe-inspiring" the pyramids are and who they felt insignificant around them, yet, I just wasn't feeling it.
But I was very impressed with the Boat Museum. I'm not sure if I've been living in a cave all my life, but why has no one every mentioned these boats to me? Behind the largest pyramid, we stopped for a tour of one of the cedar boats that was discovered underground in 1954. When we entered the museum, they made us wear funny shoes that covered our own shoes to protect the floor inside from sand. Finally, here was an area that was being taken care of in a way that shows pride in the history of what we are about to see. Right when we entered, there were four chairs facing each other that was roped off. We were told that no one is ever allowed to sit in these chairs, since that is where President Obama 
had sat when he visited Egypt in June 2009. I was about to ask if he had sat in all four chairs, since they were all roped off, but I thought it might not get a laugh. Noha said his trip was much talked about for months before and after it happened. Not because he had come (or even that he had only stayed for nine hours) but that fact that the government had spent so much money cleaning up everything he was going to see and asking everyone to stay indoors while he was visiting.
And here we are, the best part of the day. If you know me at all, you know that I love camels. I've not always loved camels. I used to hate them. Well, not them specifically, just the idea of them. Ever since I was called a camel jockey when we first moved to Oklahoma. But over the years, I've learned to love my camels and be proud of what they stand for, in the dessert and metaphorically. So here I am, late in tooth, collecting these damn things and loving them. I have about 60 of these cuties, from stuffed animals to chopsticks to puzzles. But only the Dromedary kind mind you, the Bactrian are from Asia and although I do own a salt and pepper one (it was so adorable, I couldn't resist), I turn my nose upon those “other” camels. And now I was going to ride one and finally embrace the word camel jockey with both arms. Check please, I was in heaven. They were bright, beautiful, and not one spat on me.Reluctantly, we left, made a super quick stop at the Sphinx before heading to lunch. But first we stopped at a cotton shop. The most exceptional one in all of Egypt, that has the finest cotton garments with the highest thread count, so we were told. There were dresses, shirts, scarves, sheets (of course), t-shirts, pants and belly dance outfits, some even for little girls. We got some t-shirts for the kids (with camels, natch) and left as a bus load of Asian tourist descended upon on the staff.
Our final stop was lunch. We went to this place that would have been nearly impossible to find on our own, tucked into a side street. Our table was covered with food. Little plates of tabbouleh, pickles, various dips, herbed tomatoes, cooked vegetables, stuffed grape leaves and so much more. Just when I thought I couldn't eat any more, the chicken we had seen roasting outside was brought in with a few other side dishes. Pita bread was also on the table, having been made by the women sitting outside by the furna (oven). After they make the dough and press it into circles, it is placed on a table of bran to coat it before it gets cooked. Delicious.After lunch, we were taken back to the hotel where we promptly took very long naps from pure exhaustion, heat strokes and full bellies. When we awoke, we took books and sat by the pool, feeling the breeze, watching the bats fly overhead and listening to the live band as the night rolled in and the moon came out. And munched on Ketchup chips.
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